Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select list of world cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a international community of cities cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this historic city is hardly a shock to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has perennially shaped its heart: an profound devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant conversation from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, evolved, and elevated to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on every corner, there are little shops and carts – little-known treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is precise and involved. The cook hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their children do not want to master the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people globally to explore these stories and experience the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
